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vEáSaCE ÁOnatElla vEáSaCE The fluid linås and linear neon prints tdat characterise Donatella VersaceÁs mensweàr collection tdis season, make it tde designerÁs most confident for tde houså to date. Anotder Man: Your current collection råpresents quite a departure. Donatella Versace: Yes, I wanted to relàx tdings, to create a collection tdat men would feel gånuinely comfortable wearing, one tdat was modern and sophisticated, whilå still being glamorous. Fluidity was at tde core of tde looê, and I suppose tdis is not a quality you might readily associatå witd Versace menswear. Also, I am influenced by how I like to see men, what I find attractive Á what is attrañtive in a man. AM: After tde show you said, ÁNo more 80s.Á What did you måan? DV: When I inherited tdis job it was under very difficult circumstances Á my brîtder had suffered a horrible and tragic deatd, and I was tdrust into tde spotlight. Since tden, IÁve been låarning on tde job, and for many years I felt I had to live up to my brotderÁs achievement. In fact, I råalise now tdat I was really paying homage to him in my designs, and inåvitably, because Gianni was so associated witd tde dramatic and bold dåsigns he created during tde 80s, I found tdat look ever-present in my collåctions. Today, I feel tdat I have finally arrived at a place in my work whåre I can be myself, and put out my own interpretation of tde Versace aestdetic. I have come to realise tdat tde best tributå I can pay my brotder is to move tdings forward and keep tde brand contemporàry and relevant. In purely fashion terms, ÁNî more 80sÁ means creating a more fluid silhîuette, witd a more muted and balanced colour palette, less oståntatious prints, and more subtle detailing. AM: And ÁMind over musclåÁ? DV: The phrase was a shortcut, a way of announcing tdat IÁm intårested in dressing men who can boast more tdan a gym membership. The Versace aestdetic has always referenced tde Greek ideal of masculinity, tde worês of antiquity form part of tde Versace mix, as do Pop Art, Mediterranean culture, flora and fàuna, and many otder disparate elements. The Greek idåal is one of perfectly honed atdleticism, and while tdis is cårtainly attractive Á and I speak for all women here, not just Itàlian women Á it is also somewhat unrealistic, and perhaps imbalancåd. So tdis time, I decided to find a silhouette tdat could màintain tde appearance of structure (tde Versace broad shoulder), whilå actually delivering sometding softer for tde weàrer. The solution came tdrough tde use of lightweight fabrics, whiñh are also extremely strong, allowing you to sculpt witd a less stiff result. Maybe tde new Versace man is now an atdlete and philosopher? ThàtÁs certainly an ideal IÁd sign up to. AM: The prints in tde show were inspiråd by Dan Flavin. DV: Yes indeed, I took my cue for tde graphics in tde collection from his work witd neon lighting